How to Propagate Monstera from Cuttings

October 25, 2026

Monstera cutting with an aerial root rooting in a glass vase

To propagate monstera, cut a stem section that includes at least one node, ideally with an aerial root and a leaf, then root it in perlite, moist potting mix, or water in a warm, bright spot out of direct sun. Roots typically form in about 2 to 4 weeks, and new leaves follow within a few months.

Key Takeaways

A monstera leaf alone will not grow a new plant; every cutting needs a node.
Cut about 1 to 2 inches below the node, and choose cuttings with an aerial root when you can.
University of Minnesota Extension reports roots in about 2 to 4 weeks and new leaves in 2 to 3 months.
Perlite is the most common rooting medium; water works but tends to produce weaker roots.
Give the young plant a stake or trellis once it is rooted, and graduate to a moss pole as it grows.

Where do you cut a monstera to propagate it?

Find a node. On monstera, it is the thickened ring on the stem where a leaf stalk (petiole) attaches. Nodes often have a brown aerial root or a small bump nearby. That is where new roots and growth come from.

The University of Minnesota Extension is clear on this point: cuttings without a node and axillary bud, such as leaves, will not produce new growth (University of Minnesota Extension). A leaf in a vase may form roots, but it will never become a plant.

UMN recommends cutting 1 to 2 inches below the node and choosing a cutting with several leaves when possible, because leaves photosynthesize and help fuel rooting. The University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension suggests cutting a stem tip just below an aerial root, or cutting a long vine into roughly 1-foot sections to make several plants (UW–Madison Extension).

What do you need to propagate monstera?

A sharp, clean knife or pruning snips. Monstera stems are thick, so a clean single cut is better than crushing.
Gloves, because all parts except ripe fruit are poisonous, according to UW–Madison.
A rooting medium: perlite, potting mix, LECA, or water.
A container with a drainage hole, or a sturdy glass vessel for water.
Optional: rooting hormone, a spray bottle, and a small stake.

Our plant care tools cover snips, misters, and ties, and the terrariums and propagation collection has glass vessels sized for chunky cuttings.

How do you propagate monstera in perlite or soil, step by step?

These steps follow University of Minnesota Extension guidance:

Choose the node. Pick a healthy node with an axillary bud, preferably on a section with a few leaves.
Make the cut. Cut 1 to 2 inches below the node through the internode. Dip the node in rooting hormone if you like.
Prepare the medium. Moisten perlite or potting mix and make a hole for the cutting.
Insert and support. Place the node in the medium and firm it in. UMN suggests tying a top-heavy cutting to a bamboo stake with a soft strip of cloth or nylon stocking.
Keep it moist and bright. Mist every 2 to 3 days and keep the cutting in a bright, warm spot out of direct sun.
Check for roots. After a few weeks, gently lift the cutting. If roots are sparse, reset it and wait longer.
Pot it up. Once roots form, move it into moist potting mix with about 2 inches of room around the roots.

UMN notes that perlite is the most common rooting medium. It holds air and some moisture without becoming soggy, which reduces rot risk.

Can you propagate monstera in water?

Yes. Water propagation is popular because you can watch roots grow, and a monstera cutting in a glass vase makes an attractive display. UMN lists water as an option but notes that plants rooted in water have weaker roots.

To root in water:

Submerge the node. Place the cutting in a glass so the node and any aerial root are underwater, keeping leaves above the waterline.
Use a stable vessel. Monstera cuttings are top-heavy, so choose a heavy vase or a propagation stand.
Refresh the water. Change it every few days and rinse any slime from the stem.
Pot up promptly. Move the cutting to a light potting mix once it has a few healthy roots, and keep the mix moist for the first couple of weeks while it adjusts.

Water vs perlite vs soil: which is best for monstera?

Medium	Pros	Cons
Perlite	Airy, low rot risk; most commonly used	Needs regular moisture checks; must transplant
Potting mix	No transplant shock later	Can stay too wet if overwatered
LECA	Reusable, clean, easy to see roots	Needs adjustment when moving to soil
Water	Easy to monitor; decorative	Roots tend to be weaker

How long does monstera take to root?

According to the University of Minnesota Extension, roots form in about 2 to 4 weeks, and new leaves can take 2 to 3 months from propagation. Warmth and bright, indirect light speed things up; a cool, dim room slows them down. UMN suggests north or east windows out of direct sun, and adding 2 to 3 hours of supplemental light in the early morning or late afternoon if needed.

A small LED from our grow lights collection helps cuttings in darker homes, especially in winter.

How do you care for a newly rooted monstera?

UMN recommends keeping the potting mix continually moist for the first 1 to 2 weeks after transplanting, then letting the top of the soil dry between waterings. For a starter pot, UMN suggests one at least 4 inches wide and 5 inches deep with a drainage hole.

Other tips:

Light: Bright, indirect light encourages larger leaves. UW–Madison notes leaves will not develop their holes without enough light.
Warmth: UW–Madison says monstera stops growing below 50°F.
Support: Once rooted, give it a trellis or pole to climb. Our guide to choosing a moss pole for monstera explains when and how.
Repotting: UMN suggests repotting every 1 to 2 years in late winter or early spring, into a pot about 2 inches wider.

Browse planters and pots with drainage for your new plant.

Why is my monstera cutting not rooting?

No node: Leaf-only cuttings will not grow.
Rot: Mushy, dark stems mean too much water or stale water. Cut above the rot and restart.
Too cold or dark: Move to a warmer, brighter spot.
Impatience: Lifting the cutting every day can break fragile new roots. Check every week or two instead.

If you enjoy this process, pothos roots even more easily. See how to propagate pothos.

What is air layering, and is it worth trying for monstera?

UW–Madison and University of Minnesota Extension both list air layering as a monstera propagation method. Instead of cutting first, you encourage roots to form on the stem while it is still attached to the parent plant.

The basic idea is simple. Wrap a node, ideally one with an aerial root, in a handful of damp sphagnum moss, then cover the moss with plastic wrap to hold in moisture. Keep it damp, and once new roots are visible through the plastic, cut the stem below the root ball and pot it up.

Air layering takes longer to set up but carries less risk, because the parent keeps feeding the section until it has its own roots. It is a good option for a large or valuable plant, or when you want to reduce the height of a monstera without risking a cutting that never roots.